Podcast 21
Where do the French go on holiday…
Janine: Bonjour and a very big warm welcome to The Good Life France Podcast.
I’m Janine Marsh, I’m an author, travel writer, editor and publisher and I live in the middle of nowhere in a very rural part of the far north of France, the Seven Valleys in Pas de Calais. I’ve had a home here for almost 20 years and that entire time I’ve been renovating it on and off, nearly finished though not quite, and along the way acquiring many animals, almost 60 now, practically a zoo! For the last ten years or so I’ve been writing about France for my website thegoodlifefranece.com and also for my free magazine at magazine.thegoodlifefrance.com which astonishingly has more than 1 million readers each month. I explore France year-round – the well-known places, the less well-known and the sometimes almost unheard of! And then I share those places with you. Next, I’m off to the Loire Valley, I’ll see some of the great chateaux – Azay le Rideau and Villandry among them, but I’ll also visit little-known Clisson and Saint Nazaire.
In this podcast I’ll be sharing everything you want to know about France – and more with my podcast partner Olivier Jauffrit...
Olivier: yes, and I am not jealous of your life at all Janine. I mean why would I be? I’m French to start with, I’ve been lucky enough to travel extensively in France since I can remember. I come from a nice region (Vendée, west of France, by the sea). I love French food and wine. Yes, there is that tiny little insignificant detail: I live in the UK. But still, I am not jealous at all Janine. Just so you know.
Moving on: what is today’s topic dear Janine?
Janine: Well, this week it is a topic I am sure that is dear to your heart - where do the French go on holiday?! And specifically, I mean summer holidays rather than winter and ski holidays…
I get asked this a lot – and you know me, no secrets here! So today we’ll talk about some of the French holiday hotspots – and also about the French on holiday – some of their quirky habits and some frankly downright weird aspects of French life.
Janine: So first – we have to get this fact out there – France is the most popular tourist destination in the world.
Olivier: YES! and beyond. I can’t say that I have proof of this, but you know it must be true that if there are extra-terrestrials out there, they are sure to be wanting to climb to the top of the Eiffel Tower, to visit the majestic palace of Versailles and to feel the wind on their little green faces as they sail a boat around the coast of Brittany.
Janine: Absolutely, I mean there is no way that extra-terrestrials will be able to resist the charms of France! And we’ll just leave that there shall we? Though, if any aliens are listening, please be aware that there is actually a law in France that forbids you to land your spaceship in Chateauneuf du Pape in Provence. No, I am not kidding. There has been a ban on alien spacecraft flying over or landing in Chateauneuf-du-Pape since 1954. The law states: "Any aircraft, known as flying saucer or flying cigar, which should land on the territory of the community will be immediately held in custody."
Oli – can you imagine this happening?
Olivier: Yes, I can actually. I can picture perfectly Monsieur le gendarme arriving at the sight of a UFO landing, and saying “Bonjour Monsieur or madame extra-terrestrial (that is assuming he can make the difference between the 2 genders)… I must inform you that you are breaking the law, you must immediately move your flying saucer from our vineyards, or we will have no choice but to put you in prison, not that we have one here in Chateauneuf du Pape, but yes, we will find somewhere to put you.”
Janine: There’s actually a vineyard in California that makes a wine called “cigare volant” which is French for Flying Cigar in honour of this extremely strange law which was really about making Chateauneuf a bit more famous – a marketing ploy!
Which leads me nicely to a travel fact relevant to going on holiday in France – and it’s another law.
Did you know that in France it’s illegal to kiss someone when you’re on the platform at a train station?
To be honest I don’t think anyone takes any notice of this, I certainly give my other half a big smackeroony when I go off travelling and leave him at home with the animals! And no one has ever said anything, though I may not try it if I go to Chateauneuf in case I end up in a jail cell with an alien…
Olivier: Well maybe you should be careful because yes indeed it is the law in France that you cannot kiss farewell on train station platforms! SNCF – the French railways got fed up with delays caused by smooching couples so in 1910, the law was made to stop it. I don’t know if anyone has ever been punished for this as you are right, no one takes any notice anyway! We French love to kiss!
Janine: The French do love to kiss but that’s a whole other episode for another day. What is also a favourite thing of the French is to go on holiday in France. It’s not just the 90 million, yep, 90 million visitors who arrive in France each year that love this place, the French do too. A whopping 80% of French people take holidays in France. And why not, there’s so much to explore and discover from the Eiffel Tower in Paris to the blooming lavender fields of Provence.
World class art, magnificent architecture, more than 40,000 chateaux and fortresses, glorious beaches, snowy mountains, historic cities, picturesque villages - the sheer diversity of the culture, landscapes and attractions of France is staggering. And when you’ve ticked off those must-see sites off your list – the Palace of Versailles, Mont-Saint-Michel in Normandy, a dazzling little island that makes you feel you have stepped back centuries, the Louvre, the world’s most visited museum and the sun-kissed French Riviera, the boulevards of Paris and the majestic castles of the Loire Valley - there are a million more thrilling sites and places to discover – prehistoric caves, troglodyte villages, the steep cobbled streets of Saint-Emillion in Bordeaux, the medieval old town of Annecy in Savoie and Claude Monet’s house and garden in Giverny, Normandy.
Olivier: But where do the French go on holiday you ask? Well in fact we do go to all these places, because even we French love to go to the Eiffel Tower and enjoy the views from the top, a glass of Champagne in the bar, and we go to Versailles Palace of course… who can resist the bling bling? But we do have our favourites. And we like to travel mostly by car or by train.
Janine: And here’ a fun fact for the drivers – a rather mind-boggling 30% of all the traffic roundabouts in the world are in France. They just love a roundabout here! The very first one in the world was at the Place de l’Etoile (Star Square), now called Place Charles de Gaulle, with the Arc de Triomphe, commissioned in 1806 by Napoleon Bonaparte, in the middle. A nightmarish twelve boulevards converge on that roundabout, and it’s said that if you’re involved in an accident driving round the circle, insurance companies split the cost fifty-fifty as each driver is considered at fault. Allegedly it’s the only place in the city where an accident is not judged.
Anyway – Oli so where do the French go to in their cars and on the trains.
Olivier: Well, one of the most popular places in France for summer holidays is the French Riviera – possibly no surprises there! Les vacances, holidays, whenever they’re taken, are chance to leave behind the routine of daily grind, what we French refer to as metro, boulot, dodo (subway, work, sleep). Whether it’s a summer beach break or a winter ski break, French holidays involve getting up late, lingering around the lunch table for hours, soaking up fresh air, evenings spent relaxing. And the French Riviera is a great place to relax. And eat. And drink. And swim. And tan. And nap.
Janine: And Provence is also really popular- just as many French head to Provence in the summer as visitors. And I’m not surprised – lavender fields, hilltop villages, Aix-en-Provence, Roman ruins, festivals, wine tasting, I mean – what’s not to love. But the French also have their secret favourite places that most visitors don’t know about. Like Le Touquet Paris-Plage. Now this little seaside town is in the far north of France, around 2 hours from Paris by train. In fact, it’s just down the road from where I live. Its name pays homage to the affection Parisians have for it. It’s nicknamed the Monaco of the north. In the early 20th century, it was one of the first jet setter resorts.
The great British writer H G Wells eloped here in 1909. Noël Coward, Marlene Dietrich, Edith Piaf, Cecil Beaton, and Ian Fleming all holidayed here. In fact, Ian Fleming based his iconic Bond, 007, story “Casino Royale” on Le Touquet’s casino. Winston Churchill was a fan and Queen Elizabeth II holidayed here as a teenager and learned to sand yacht on the beach in the 1930s, and did you know that this was begun by local resident Louis Bleriot, the first man to fly a plane across the English Channel. The famous Dolly sisters, vaudeville performers who captured the hearts of men around the world strolled along the front with their pet tortoises set with a pair of four-carat blue diamonds by Cartier, given to them by millionaire Harry Selfridge, of London Selfridges fame), Sean Connery signed his first James Bond contract in the town.
Royal families, Maharajas, politicians, Hollywood stars and millionaires - in those days, if you were famous or rich, then you stayed at Le Touquet which was in its heyday throughout the 1920s and 1930s.
If you were disgustingly rich in the 1930s you stayed at the Royal Picardy Hotel- then the biggest hotel in the world. It had 500 rooms, 120 lounges, 50 apartments so big each one had its own swimming pool. PG Wodehouse of Jeeves and Wooster fame rented a room there and wrote a book of short stories with Guy Plum - one of which was the basis for the Hollywood film “Anything Goes”. Cole Porter stayed there and wrote the music for “Anything Goes” - on the piano at the casino across the road.
Olivier: The French singer Serge Gainsbourg got his first singing break here, singing at Flavio restaurant - it’s still there!
Janine: It still quite swanky in Le Touquet, though a bit more genteel these days – I once saw Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie there! Alas the hotel is no longer, it was largely destroyed during the Second World War. Anyway, if you’re looking for a seaside holiday with a difference, come to my neck of the woods – Le Touquet is lovely but there are loads more seaside towns, traditional fishing villages where fishermen sell fresh fish from their boats in their front gardens and belle epoque villas – the Opal Coast is lovely.
Anyway, where next do the French go Oli?
Olivier: Deauville in Normandy is another of the in-places to go – especially for Parisians. It’s not far from Paris and its very chic and trendy. Hmmm a bit of a theme here – do we French like chic and trendy – I think it must be the case! Anyway, Deauville is where Coco Chanel opened her first shop. It is very manicured and smart, and people dress up on holiday here – this is the place to see and be seen. But just down the road is Trouville which is also lovely but not quite so chichi… and Honfleur is also close by with its beautiful little port and traditional fishermen’s houses and winding little streets of art galleries – the impressionists loved it here.
And another secret place that the French love – the island of Corsica where Napoleon Bonaparte was born. 80% of Corsica’s visitors are from the French mainland – we know a good thing when we see it!
Janine: I love Corsica! I went for the first time last year on a cruise around the island with CroisiEurope, the French cruise people, from Nice we went all around Corsica, stopping at historic cities, visiting gorgeous villages and exquisite beaches. Just magical.
Olivier: Mon dieu, we are sharing all the secrets of the places the French like to keep for themselves! But I don’t think anyone will mind! So, I will share more!
We French love island hopping. France has about 1300 islands but less than 30 are permanently inhabited and most are great for day trips but don’t have a lot of accommodation. However, the chichi Ile de Re just off the coast of La Rochelle is one of our most favourites – but it can get very busy in the summer. If you like it quieter, next-door Ile d’Aix is also very lovely, no cars there, and not so busy, less restaurants and places to stay but if you love Caribbean style silky beaches and hollyhocks growing wild – you will love it. And fabulous seafood too.
Janine: Ah yes, holidays for the French are also about food. I don’t know about you but sometimes the things I remember most when I’m travelling involve the food I get to try. When you luck out and stumble upon vibrant little village squares, tables set around a shady plane tree, chairs that wobble on cobbles, lace-curtained cafés and vintage-looking bistros that proudly boast their plat du jour on a board, their menus boasting local and traditional dishes, tarte Tatin, cassoulet, moules frites, salad niçoise, changing with the seasons or according to what was available at the market. One of my most memorable foodie experiences was in Carcassonne. I had visited the amazing Citadel and decided to walk to the lovely town at the bottom of the hill called Bastide Saint-Louis and just as I got to the bottom of the hill where the citadel sits, the heavens opened. It was a hot day, a bit like taking a shower as the rain poured. I dived, not literally of course though it was raining a lot, I dived under the awning of a little restaurant called Bloc G to wait out the rain.
I ordered a glass of wine and watched people splashing by and got lost in the moment and then suddenly it was time for dinner, so I just stayed and the owner came out and chatted to me and made recommendations and the home-cooked food was just so wonderful. That was 7 years ago and if I shut my eyes, I can still remember the smell and the taste of tiny little shellfish called tellines, fried in olive oil, garlic and parsley…
Olivier: I have so many memories but if I think about recent holidays, it has to be the time I spent in Ardèche last year. It was great. We had a happy time there. And the town where we stayed is called JOYEUSE. Happy in French. So that’s a good start. And then, it’s just the perfect mix of Frenchness, sunshine, beautiful landscapes, things to visit and… gastronomy.
We went to that restaurant called La Maison de Nany (Nany’s house) right in the centre of Joyeuse. Magnifique. We also had a stroll in a very old medieval village called Labeaume, with outstanding character and you can swim in its river, surrounded by gorgeous gorges.
It’s all about being relaxed there, enjoying good food, and being outside all the time, it’s just what you need – especially when you live in the UK like me. I strongly recommend Ardeche.
Olivier: And finally – French people never check their work email when they’re on holiday, holidays are for switching off and relaxing!
But now, it’s time for a listener question! So, what do we have on the menu today Janine?
Janine: Today’s question is to do with holidays. Samantha Taylor of Teddington Lock, England, UK says: “Do people go topless on the beaches in France still?” Oli – over to you…
Olivier: I do. OK. France used to be known for its topless bathing and it is still practiced, but it’s not as popular as it used to be. It’s not illegal to sunbathe topless in France like it is in some countries. There are many naturist beaches that are well sign-posted to stop people wandering along the sand and getting more of an eyeful than they bargained for. Cap d’Agde Naturist Village, in the Languedoc, is nicknamed “naked city” and it is the world largest ‘nudist resort’. You may spot men wearing tiny swimming trunks at public swimming pools, and it’s not because they want to show off their bodies. It’s actually the law in France for men to wear “budgie smugglers” in public pools! it’s about hygiene, looser fitting swimming trunks might, allegedly, pick up dust and dirt and be carried into the pool. I’ll put a picture of me wearing one on those on The Good Life France’s Facebook page very soon. Or maybe I won’t…
Janine: Honestly, I think it’s time to change the law with those tiny trunks!
I once stayed at a naturist campsite by mistake. It was a long time ago and I was just meandering around France on a road trip with a friend. We went where we felt like going – Honfleur, La Rochelle, Bordeaux, Nontron, we tried to stay away from well-known places and get off the beaten track and every night we just pitched up at a campsite and put our tent up. One night we were late finding somewhere to stay and starting to think we’d have to sleep in the car when we saw a sign for a campsite 15km away. It was nearly midnight when we got there, we were shattered, it was dark and the man on the desk was really friendly, took our money, gave us a map and told us where we could pitch up.
We put the tent up in the pitch black and went to sleep. It was August and hot and the morning sun woke me up so I opened the flap of the tent and laid there just relaxing, the air smelled of pine trees and the cicadas, you know those little cricket-like insects, were making that wee-wee-wee noise and I could hear sea waves as we were on the edge of the coast and then something flashed past the tent.
And then another pink flash – it was a man cartwheeling in the nude. I leapt out of my sleeping bag, and went to the door and sure enough, the whole place was filled with naked people and a man went past naked on a bike – all I could think was, I hope that’s not a rental, imagine if you got that after him?
A group of elderly ladies and gents came by carrying tennis rackets in the nude – gives a whole new meaning to the term ball boys. The whole place was a naked town – even in the shops. That was a bit of a surprise I can tell you!
Olivier: Thanks so much for this question, Samantha. If you also have a question for us – feel free to send it to janine@thegoodlifefrance.com or via our podcast newsletter.
Thank you so much for listening to our podcast, please continue to share it with your friends and family. It makes a big difference!
So, we are Janine Marsh and myself Olivier Jauffrit. You can find me at parischanson.fr (details coming up in 30 seconds)
Janine: And you can find me at thegoodlifefrance.com where you can subscribe to the podcast, my weekly newsletter about France and my fabulous, free magazine which is at magazine.thegoodlifefrance.com
But for now, it’s au revoir from me.
Olivier: And goodbye from me.
Janine: Speak to you soon!
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