#23 - Autumn in France

Autumn in France and La Rentrée – a very French thing! It literally means ‘the return’, which sounds quite mysterious, like a thriller film but it’s not at all. We explain all about la rentrée and the best places to visit in France in the fall. 

We share some of the best seasonal festivals – especially foodie festivals - and events, from giant flea markets, arty party nights and wine harvest events in Paris – yes there is a wine producing vineyard right in the centre of Paris to a chocolate fair where they hold a fashion show in which the models wear clothes made from chocolate! 

And we share our favourite places that may be a bit more crowded in the summer months but are ideal in autumn. 

Plus we answer a reader’s question – how many times should you kiss – and what cheek do you start with?! 

Fun, entertaining and authentic – entente cordiale in a podcast! 

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Chapters

• 0:00 Intro
• 1:21 Autumn in France
• 21:35 Q&A
• 24:50 Conclusion

Transcript

Podcast Autumn in France
 

Janine : Bonjour and bienvenue to The Good Life France Podcast! I’m Janine Marsh, I’m a Brit, from London as you can maybe tell from my accent, but now I live in France – in the far north, in the gorgeous countryside of the Seven Valleys. I am a writer - I’ve written four books about life in France and I’m also the editor of The Good Life France Magazine and website. When I’m not writing, I am a maid to four dogs, 8 cats, a flock of chickens, ducks and geese and a hedgehog called Charlie! 

In this podcast I love to share with you everything about France with my podcast partner Oli.

Oli: Bonjour Janine, bonjour everyone. I am Olivier, Oliver and Oli. I leave you to choose the one you prefer. I am one of those French living in the UK, which I love - but I am still very much attached to France – Once you’re French, you’re French forever. It’s like when you try baguette and butter dipped into hot chocolate, you can’t really recover from that.

Alors, Janine, what are we going to talk about today for the first episode of season 2?

Janine : Today’s topic is Autumn in France and La Rentrée – a very French thing! It literally means ‘the return’, which sounds quite mysterious, like a thriller film but it’s not at all. And we’ll explain all about it in a minute. 

Oli: Yes, the Summer holidays are over and we covered the topic of where the French go on holiday in an earlier podcast. But now we’re into the end of the holidays, when kids go back to school, and everyone gets back to work and into their normal routines which in France is known as La rentrée. But it’s more than just the return to routine – it’s a cultural thing that’s unique to France. So, we’re going to talk about what it means and how to enjoy la rentrée if you’re in France. 

But having said that everyone goes back to work – well there is one group that doesn’t. The mamies and the papies, the grannies and grandpas who looked after the kids in the holidays – they now take off for their holidays. And anyone who doesn’t like it too hot, like it can be in July and August, or who wants to visit France without the holiday crowds – they look at autumn as the perfect time to visit France. So, we’ll also look at where to go in Autumn in France. 

Janine: July and August in France feels like everyone is off on holiday, you’ll even find that many offices and some shops, restaurants and hotels close during the summer months. In a local seaside town where I live I was astounded to see that the souvenir shop was shut for two weeks in August! Surely for many this is their busiest time, but my French friends say that family time is more important than making money during the peak summer season. 

Oli: Summer holidays are a really big deal in France, much like the two-hour lunch break so when the start of September arrives, there’s a noticeable rush to get back into the swing of things. 

Janine: So Oli, where did you spend your ‘olidays in France (sorry I couldn’t help it).

Oli : Well I spent my Vacances ;-) doing a mini Tour de France to see the family. We took the ferry to St Malo, which is only a 2-hour drive from Nantes, where my parents and sister live. My niece got married (in Nantes as well), so we went to that too. That was great. Then, Rodez and Albi in the south of France to join what is called “les cousinades”, a family party where all the cousins get together. Then we went to Lyon for a few days + Belfort (east of France) to see my in-laws and back to Calais and the UK. 2700 kms, in 3 weeks.

What about you Janine, did you have an oliday? 

Janine: I have too many animals to have a holiday! I remain rather British despite living in France – I carried on working throughout the summer months. I need to be more French. I did go on a trip to Alsace though which was a working trip but felt like a holiday – I cruised the Marne-Rhine Canal with CroisiEurope and explored the very secret parts of Alsace and Lorraine, tiny villages, medieval castles and finished up in lovely Strasbourg and of course I’ll be writing about this in an upcoming issue of the magazine (which is free by the way – you’ll find it at magazine.thegoodlifefrance.com). The rest of the time I was helping out with renovations as we’re still working on at our house – 19 years, it’s seriously never going to be finished but we did get further along and I’m starting to think we may be finished next year. Though I do say that every year! And I did some training with our 4 puppies. And I started writing another book – a romance this time! So not exactly a holiday but it was a good summer! 

Oli:  So, it is La Rentrée on this podcast! What does it mean la rentrée – well, schools go back generally the first Monday of September so there’s a last-minute panic the week before, to get schoolbooks, pens etc ready. Did you know that the long holidays are because traditionally children were needed to help out with the harvest time? And it’s said that the first recorded official long break was in the year 1231 because there were so few students in universities during harvest time. It wasn’t a break for a holiday like now, but so that students could go home and help out - and actually it was still the case that the summer break was about 10 weeks long until quite recently and farming families could request even longer off school for kids over 12 if they were needed to help out. It was in the 1980s that school summer holidays began to follow the pattern we have now – generally early July to start of September.

There’s no rush for a school uniform in France like there is in the UK - well not officially, generally kids wear jeans – a sort of unofficial uniform. But the new Education minister in France said recently that he was not against the idea of school uniforms… So we’ll see…

Janine: And did you know that jeans are French – sort of? They were of course actually invented by Levi Strauss in America. Legend has it that he went to San Francisco to join in the California Gold Rush and took some dry goods to sell like wagon covers and canvas for tents, and a prospector said to him – you should have bought pants – because everyone struggled to get a pair of pants, trousers to us Brits, that could take the tough work and last. 

Strauss was a smart cookie and settled on a tough cotton fabric known as serge de Nimes, a cotton produced in Nimes, southern France. It was dyed blue because that was the cheapest colour dye and it was so strong it was used as tarpaulin. Strauss called the pants ‘jeans’ after the blue dye called ‘genoa’ and he called the fabric denim – from the name serge de Nimes. And they were a massive success. In France they did something a bit different. They were made into jackets, overalls and trousers, not like jeans, no copper rivets or coloured stitching, and they were called ‘bleu de travail’ blues for work and they’re still popular in rural areas and for people with jobs that involve manual work, whilst jeans are popular everywhere – the uniform of life really. 

Oli: La rentrée is also about getting back to work, we generally don’t stress too much about that though, no rush to be busy, we share stories of our holidays, mostly what we did, what we cooked and what we ate – this is France after all – and we sort of gently ease ourselves back in.  

And September is also the time when the politicians get back to work after their long luxurious holidays in the sun. And it’s the time of la rentrée litteraire. It’s traditional for new books to be published and released to the market then – mostly because there are two big literary prizes awarded in October and November in France – so September is a good time to publish. 

Janine: And again there I am not very French, my new book, How to be French is going to be published in October! 

For me la rentrée is also a time for gardening. In my village everyone is harvesting their fruit and vegetables in gardens, and of course the farmers are in the fields getting everything in. My neighbours, all of whom are keen cooks, will be making jam, chutneys and sauces, and freezing summer fruits and vegetables. Potatoes will be dug up and hoarded in cellars, carrots stored in boxes of sand. Pumpkins are starting to be ready for harvesting and there is always a contest to see who grew the biggest in the village. One year, my neighbour managed to grow one that was so big no one could lift it and it had to be rolled into a tractor bucket to be taken out of the garden. I think you could have put wheels on it and driven it into town. We also have a pumpkin contest here in my village and I have been trying for years to be win but it’s a fiercely fought competition, and my neighbour Jean-Claude is a frequent winner and goes around telling everyone that he is ‘biggest pumpkin of the year.” 

And we see a lot of wild animals this time of the year, pheasant, deer, hedgehogs – they love to fill up on the food I put out for my cats so they can get through winter. And also wild pigs, sangliers in French. There are lot around here. They are very shy creatures though I read in the newspaper that in Nancy, in Lorraine, northeast France, a wild pig ran in to a supermarket and went on the rampage, a sort of supermarket sweep, it broke things and knocked over displays until it was cornered by a security guard armed with a flowerpot. True story that! 

Oli: And it’s the time when the arts world gets a renewed lease of life and loads of new exhibitions start…

Janine: Which brings us to Where to go in Autumn in France. And oh there is so much choice it’s hard to know where to start but we’re going to share some of our favourite festivals and places… 

I’m going to start with Etaples which is close to where I live in the north of France. It’s a small fishing village with a great market – in fact it was voted favourite market of the French a couple of years ago. But I’m including it for autumn in France because in November they have a Herring festival which is huge fun. A giant barbecue is set up, there is folk dancing, sea shanties and herrings cooked every way you can think of served with a glass of white wine and a big hunk of crusty baguette. It’s like a huge party and everyone is invited! It’s usually the middle weekend of November (you can check dates on my website – www.thegoodlifefrance.com). 

Oli: Paris is always a good idea – we told you that before… but in Autumn I think it is very special. There’s so much going on, lots of exhibitions in all the museums, but also, it’s when the Salon du Chocolat is held – a chocolate fair with hundreds of chocolate makers and even a fashion show where the models wear clothes made from chocolate! And it’s also the time of the Fetes des Vendanges in Paris – a celebration of the grape harvest and wine made in Paris. Because, yes, Paris does have a vineyard which produces wine. Ok it’s not a lot and not very good, but it’s a lovely vineyard and it’s a great party time in October when the fete is on. You can find the vineyard in Montmartre, it’s quite a secret place, not many visitors find it but it’s worth looking for – it’s next to the Museum of Montmartre, where Renoir once lived which is also a great visit. 

Janine: Ok, still in the north, but this time in Picardie, in Amiens which is a lovely city where there are floating gardens in a huge watery area right in the centre which date to the medieval ages and are absolutely stunning. I love to take a boat ride there and you can see the spire of the great Gothic cathedral. In October the town gets busier than usual as it’s the Grand Rederie – a huge flea market, the second largest in France and it’s held on the first Saturday of each October. Around 2000 stalls are set up and it has a great atmosphere. So, if you’re a flea market fan this is a great place to go. By the way the biggest flea market in France is held at Lille, not too far from Amiens, that takes place the first weekend of September each year and that has around 10,000 stalls set up over a whopping 62 miles, 100km of streets, and runs non-stop for 33 hours – people wear hats with torches on so that they can continue shopping through the night. They also hold a mussels and chips contest, moules frites! Pretty much all the restaurants take part, and they pile the mussel shells up outside the restaurant and the biggest pile at the end of the flea market is the winner! Up to 500 tons of mussels are eaten at this event and up to 2.5 million people go! 

Oli: It’s very hard to choose where to go in autumn in France because it’s a lovely time of the year just about everywhere. But I would say Provence is great, not so intense heat, not so many crowds. If you love wine, then this is a great time to go the Loire Valley and discover the 800km wine route – especially by bike. And visit the chateaux, if you’re lucky you might get a morning mist, and they all have gorgeous gardens where the leaves of the trees are turning gold and red. At some of the castles they have pumpkin displays like at the Chateau du Rideau and the Chateau of Chaumont-sur Loire where you can also do tastings of seasonal products. 

Janine: Definitely – I agree, everywhere is lovely in autumn, and some places that do get a bit busy and hot in the summer are great for autumn – like Carcassonne with its amazing walled city but it does get a bit crowded in summer months, and Nice where it’s still warm enough to swim in October, and also Mont Saint-Michel in Normandy which is a small island so when lots of people turn up you can feel a bit like a sardine in a tin but in autumn it’s much less crowded.

I like to go to the Nuit Blanche event in Paris in autumn. It’s not that well known outside of Paris but if you are there on the first Saturday of October – don’t miss it! Nuit Blanche literally means White Night, a French term that’s used to describe a night without sleep. For this even the city puts on a very special art show. Expect the unexpected from dawn to dusk extravaganza with an arty party atmosphere. Many streets and buildings are turned into an art show basically, and it’s totally free. People walk a circuit with the art exhibits marked. One year I went and the very scantily clad dancers from the Crazy Horse show put on a show in the garden of the Petit Palais. And there was a weird spaceship type light installation in the courtyard of an ancient hospital, light shows on buildings, on and under bridges, in the river… it’s pretty mad, well, very mad, quite deranged really, but totally brilliant fun. 

And, there are so many food festivals this time of the year – Fete du Piment in Espelette, celebrates the famous peppers grown in the region. It’s chestnut season, mushroom season, wine season, seafood – one of my favourites is the Fete de la coquille in Caen, in Normandy – a brilliant scallop festival, and then there’s Beaujolais Nouveau. 

This event celebrates the arrival of the first young wine of Beaujolais, which by the way is one of the most beautiful parts of France I’ve ever been to and produces the most amazing wines and it’s also great for a fall visit. But they also produce Beaujolais Nouveau, quite different from the normal wines here and it’s always released for drinking on the third Thursday of November. And yes, it is a bit of a marketing ploy – but who cares, it’s really good fun. Beaujolais Nouveau is celebrated in many countries and yes - in France too. And people often ask me to do the French really drink Beaujolais Nouveau, as they say you know it’s not really a good wine is it? And yes, it’s true, it may not be the best wine and some French people are like – non, non, non but actually a lot of French people love the whole razzmatazz, the fact that there is a reason to celebrate and also a chance to critique the wine because everyone in France is a wine critic! 

Oli: I am not a fan of this wine. Mostly because it is red wine and I much prefer rosé and white wine. But the celebration around it I don’t mind at all, it’s fun!  

But, now it’s time for a listener’s question. 

Janine: So today’s question is from Ian Carnaby who hails from Scotland and he says “Me and my wife are going to Brittany to go to a wedding of our British friends who live near Rennes. Most of their friends are French so we have been learning a bit of French and a bit about French etiquette but we don’t know how many times we should kiss – and what side to start – it seems a bit confusing. But we think it is three times, and we start on the left.”

Oli – True or False should you faire la bise, do the cheek kiss three times and start on the left?

Oli: Hmm well, Ian, that’s not such an easy answer as you might think! Actually, even for French people it can be a bit confusing. You need to consider do you kiss the first time you meet someone? How many times? Where are you when you’re kissing? Where are they from?  And more! For instance, we wouldn’t kiss the boss at work, but we might kiss our colleagues! But you’re at a wedding and everyone is going to be happy, and kissing is ok. 

Janine: Basically I always think if you’re meeting someone for the first time, shake their hands, don’t lunge at them and try to kiss them on the cheek, they will think you’re very odd! Cheek-kissing comes later and only ladies to start, cheek-kissing between men is strictly for relatives and very good friends! This being France, sometimes people do kiss you when you meet them for the first time so the advice is general, and follow the lead of your French friend, if they go to kiss you, just go with the flow!

Oli: How many times though? Hmm. Mostly it’s two times, right cheek first! But it depends on where you are. In some regions, only one kiss. In other regions it can be three kisses or even four or five kisses! And sometimes its left cheek first! I spent 10 days in south of France this summer, where you do 3 kisses. Then I went to east of France, where you only do 2. Everybody got confused there, after my second kiss, including me. 
 
We have a website in France called Combien de bises, how many kisses to help us! In Brittany it’s a bit more complicated, in Finistere in Brittany, it is only one kiss usually, and that’s very unusual for France, but mostly two kisses. And normally start with the right cheek. But yes – as Janine said – go with the flow! 

Janine: Ian also wants to know if it’s ok to hug a French person! 

Oli: Non – never hug! Shake the hand or kiss! We don’t do the hug! Thanks so much for this question, Ian. If you also have a question for us – feel free to send it to janine@thegoodlifefrance.com or via our podcast newsletter.
 
 

Thank you so much for listening to our podcast, we are very happy to be back after our summer breaks - and a huge thank you for sharing it with your friends and family – we are very grateful to you for this. 

So, we are Janine Marsh and me Olivier Jauffrit. You can find me at parischanson.fr (details coming up in 30 seconds)

Janine: And you can find me at thegoodlifefrance.com where you can subscribe to the podcast, my weekly newsletter about France and my fabulous, free magazine which is at magazine.thegoodlifefrance.com

But for now, it’s au revoir from me.

Olivier: And goodbye from me.

Janine: Speak to you soon!